Saturday, May 28, 2016

Sunday Feast № 22 | Aperitivo, or what to have with that Russian cousin of Negroni called Negrosky

The yearning for sunshine increases as the temperatures rise and days become longer. To while away the long afternoons drinking and eating at an outside table at you favorite watering hole is now a real possibility, and one long overdue. All that whiling means that a preamble to the dinner is called for. Since that ray of sunshine limoncello has to wait till after the dinner, being a digestivo, my mind drifted to Campari, a fine red aperitivo, a pre-dinner gem reminiscent of freshly breaking sunrise or the last smidgen of sunset, the latter yet to come if you start early enough. Now, we are civilized people; therefore, we will not sustain on Campari drinks alone (say, the titular Russian cousin of Negroni called Negrosky), but indulge the Italian art of aperitivo which calls for curbing alcoholic overindulgence with tasty sides. What a way to ease into the dinner hour!
   As for that red goodness, "[Campari] is made by infusing a base of alcohol and water with a proprietary mix of herbs and fruits, including rhubarb, orange, and a variety of sour orange known as chinotto in Italian. The bitter infusion is then sweetened with sugar in the form of simple syrup and stiffened in accordance with its destination: 24% alcohol (48 proof) for American drinkers and 25% alcohol by volume (50 proof) for the Italians. Differences in taxation on alcohol are the most likely explanation, as Italians are not particularly well known for their high tolerances. Campari's signature ruby red color comes from colorants. Until recently, Campari's colorant of choice was cochineal dye, an all-natural coloring agent extracted from a beetle-like insect native to Central and South America. In 2006, the beetle juice was replaced with FD&C Red #5. Some claim the change came in response to protests of animal rights activists, but it's more likely that the artificial colorant was simply less expensive." - from Aperitivo: The Cocktail Culture of Italy by Marisa Huff, where the recipes are also from. Saluti bambini!
Fun on the side
Negrosky
1 part vodka
1 part Campari
1 part sweet vermouth
You know what to do.
Serve on ice with a slice of an orange.

Movie
Cinema Paradiso (1988)


Giardiniera, or Garden Pickles
Improvise with the vegetables, and below gives you an idea of volume, order and duration of cooking.
  • 3 cups white wine
  • 3 cups white wine vinegar
  • 2 tbsp kosher salt
  • 1 tbsp sugar
  • 1 tsp black peppercorns
  • 2 dried bay leaves
  • ---
  • ½ head cauliflower cored and divided into floretes
  • 10 cipollini or white pearl onions peeled and cut in half or chunky rings
  • 4 carrots cut into ½ in/~1.5 cm slices
  • 3 stalks celery cut into 1 in/2.5 cm pieces
  • 1 yellow and 1 red bell pepper stems and seeds removed and cut into 1 in/2.5 cm squares
  • ½ cup green beans cut into 2 in/5 cm pieces
  1. In a large pot, bring to boil the white wine and vinegar, then turn down to simmer and stir in the salt, sugar, peppercorns, and bay leaves.
  2. Add the cauliflower and onions, and cook for 3 min.
  3. Add the carrots, celery, and bell peppers, and cook for 2 min.
  4. Add the green beans, and cook for 2 min.
  5. Remove from the heat. Cover and let cool to room temperature. Once cooled, either serve by scooping the vegetables from the pickling liquid into small bowls, or let them soak in the pickling juice overnight in the fridge before serving
Oven Roasted Eggplant
Make as much or as little as you need and fancy.
  • 1 or 2½ lb/0.5 or 1 kg eggplant(s)
  • kosher salt
  • olive oil
  1. Trim off the top(s) of eggplant(s) and cut the eggplant(s) in half lengthwise. Cut the halves into 1½ in/4 cm thick and 3 in/7.5 cm long wedges. Toss the wedges with the salt and let stand.
  2. Preheat the oven to 400°F/205°C.
  3. Oil a baking sheet lining a baking pan. Arrange the eggplant wedges flat, and brush or drizzle the exposed sides with oil, or toss around in oil and arrange them flat. You'll figure it out.
  4. Bake for 25-25 min or until the wedges are soft and their edges have browned some.
  5. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Fresh Goat Cheese and Peppercorns
Make as much or as little as you need and fancy.
  • 8-20 oz/0.2-0.6 kg goat cheese log(s) at room temperature
  • extra virgin olive oil
  • pink peppercorns or a medley of peppercorns
  1. Slice the cheese logs into 1½ in/~4 cm thick rounds and arrange them on the plate.
  2. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with the salt.
  3. Lightly crush or mill on large setting the peppercorns, and scatter on top.
Mascarpone and Gorgonzola Almond Sandwiches
Make as much or as little as you need and fancy.
  • 4 oz/113 g mascarpone
  • 4 oz/113 g gorgonzola, preferably dolce
  • 6 slices white sandwich bread crusts removed
  • ½ cup toasted and chopped almonds
  1. In a bowl, mix together the mascarpone and gorgonzola with a fork until smooth.
  2. Spread the cheese mix across three bread slices dividing evenly. Close withe the remaining bread and press down gently but enough so that the cheese mix reaches the edges of the bread. Cut in half to make six sndwiches.
  3. Dip all four sides of each sandwich in almonds watching them stick to the cheese.

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